Visiting Superior’s Sister City in Khandbari, Nepal

In November 2022, I ventured across the globe with then-Mayor Clint Folsom, Narayan Shrestha, Stephanie Schact, Michelle Batey, and Grace Batey as Superior’s first delegation to our Sister City in Khandbari, Nepal. And, despite considering myself a seasoned traveler, nothing could have prepared me for what was to come.

An Unbelievable Welcome

As soon as we disembarked the plane, we were greeted by our Sister City’s officials, performers, and onlookers eager to welcome us to their municipality. We were given flowers, necklaces, scarves, and red powder blessings as we walked from the tarmac through Tumlingtar (the small town 20 minutes down the mountain from Khandbari). There were banners stretched across the streets with Mayor Folsom’s photo and text welcoming our delegation to Nepal. And, residents would eagerly pull us in for selfies (a theme that continued throughout our stay).

To say we were overwhelmed would be an understatement.

As we loaded into the vehicles with a police escort for the short ride up the mountain to Khandbari, we remarked on how warm the welcome had been. Little did we know, that was just a preview of what was to come.

When we arrived at the edge of our Sister City, we were told we’d be walking the rest of the way through town. The streets were lined with thousands of residents with more gifts of flowers, beaded necklaces, and scarves. Marigold petals showered down on us from balconies above. And, no sooner had helpers pulled the flower lays off of us than we were buried in more again.

Their excitement and gratitude were unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. And, while the welcome parade was the biggest celebration, it certainly wasn’t the last. Every school, hospital, and business greeted us with equal fervor.

Our delegation from Superior along with some of Khandbari’s city officials and performers.

Khandbari Mayor Mahesh Thapaliya and Superior Mayor Clint Folsom walking in the parade.

Traditional dancers and musicians performing in our welcome procession.

Stephanie Schacht and I walking in the parade.

Children from a local school lining the pathway to give us flowers and gifts.

Embracing The Nepali Culture

While in Khandbari, we were eager to learn as much as we could about our Sister City and its culture. We discovered that Nepali people operate under a caste system consisting of countless classes (each with its own dialect, garment style, and even cuisine).

There are also numerous political parties and elections can be quite contentious. In fact, we arrived in Kathmandu on election day and the Nepali government had banned all vehicles from the roadways as a safety precaution (which made getting around a logistical adventure).

The country is very spiritual, predominantly practicing Hindu and Buddhist religions. It seems everywhere you turn there’s an ornate temple, string of prayer flags, or priest ringing a bell to welcome divinity and dispel evil. It was really captivating to witness and lovely to be a part of.

I was pleased to find the Nepali people are big eaters! Dinners consist of multiple courses (each one more delicious than the last). And, meals stretch on for hours as lively conversation hangs in the air.

When it comes to clothing, Khandbari really stands out. The region produces organic fibers that are woven into the most beautiful fabrics and garments. Outerwear, scarves, purses, hats, pants, you name it. In fact, as soon as we arrived they took our measurements and had tailored winter jackets made for us by the end of the week!

And, because I didn’t want to be the American visitor who only bothered to say “namaste” on repeat, I even learned a little Nepali! First and foremost, I wanted to learn to say “thank you very much”. So, I asked one of the gentlemen in our group and he was all too eager to teach me that and more! (It’s Dhrai dhrai dhan'yavda, by the way). Soon, I knew commonly used phrases that delighted our Nepali hosts whenever I attempted to use them.

A beautiful Newar class saree that was gifted to me while I was in Khandbari.

Receiving a blessing from a Nepali priest.

Learning a traditional Nepali dance in the neighboring municipality.

Our Superior delegation wearing our tailored jackets.

Exploring Around Town

Khandbari is located in the mountainous Sankhuwasabha District of north-eastern Nepal. Its rugged roads hug the hillsides where brightly colored tractors seem to kick up a perpetual cloud of dust. Buildings are scattered along winding streets and meandering trails. And, strings of marigolds hang from prismatic doorways to bless those inside.

While there are some cars, most people rely on motorcycles and motorized rickshaws as a means of transportation. And, many more have neither and simply walk from one place to another. In fact, it’s not uncommon for those living in remote areas to have to walk for days to get from Point A to Point B. So, schooling for children in those regions can be a bit tricky.

On Saturdays, people gather at the market to buy and sell everything from fruits and spices to clothing and livestock. To get the best spot, vendors show up the night before to lay out their tarps and stake their tents on the expansive dirt park. Then, the next day, residents weave their way through as they purchase weekly goods and household items.

Admittedly, the market could use some work to make it more sanitary, accessible, and user-friendly for vendors and residents alike. So, that’s one of the first projects the Sister City committee wants to help Khandbari figure out.

Khandbari at dusk.

Vehicles are often decorate and almost always have ribbons tied to their wheels for good luck.

Meeting local shop owners. (The gentleman on the left is the one that helped me learn some Nepali).

A woman selling fruit at the Saturday market.

People weaving their way through the weekly market.

A mill worker pressing mustard.

Resients along one of the many colorful streets around town.

Learning & Exchanging Ideas

Uncovering a better solution for Khandbari’s weekly market is just one example of the reason behind Sister City relationships. And, that reason is to learn and exchange ideas.

Another example would be how the Khandbari officials changed the way they run their board meetings after visiting Superior in September 2022. While on a tour of Superior’s Town Hall, they asked what all the extra seating was for as they sat in the board chairs. Mayor Folsom explained that it was for the public to come and hear what town officials were discussing. They then asked what the podium was for. Mayor Folsom explained it was for the public to be able to give feedback to the town board. And, while it wasn’t always pleasant to hear, it was an essential part of operating a transparent government.

Upon hearing this, Mayor Mahesh Thapaliya returned to Khandbari and immediately had public seating and a podium added to their own municipal building. The first local government to do so in Nepal! It was really wonderful to see our Sister City take something they learned from us and implement it at home. And, coincidentally, it’s been a huge success!

Mayor Folsom presenting at the Khandbari Municipality Building. Notice all the new seating for members of the community to listen in!

Me speaking at the Khandbari Chamber of Commerce (which was really special after serving on Superior’s Chamber of Commerce board for nearly a decade).

Mayor Folsom giving our Sister City one of the gifts he brought from Superior.

Mayor Folsom answering students’ questions at one of the local elementary schools.

The Khandbari Sister City board.

The week in Khandbari was eye-opening, heartwarming, challenging, inspiring, and absolutely unforgettable. Our Nepali neighbors are some of the loveliest people I’ve ever met and made us feel like family from the moment we arrived.

If you want to learn more, I’d encourage you to check out upcoming Sister City events like the Taste of Nepal and the Sister City Holiday Bazaar at the Superior Community Center!

Dhan'yavda!